RUSH SR, Getting Started

Thank you for purchasing a RUSH SR. We hope our car will bring you years of enjoyment and help you develop
your on-track skills and bring you many wins in wheel-to-wheel competition. This Tech Talk has been written
to help you get from the trailer to the track as quickly as possible.
The RUSH SR is a purpose-built race car that you will run hard on track. To ensure you get reliable on track
performance, it is necessary that the car be maintained. The maintenance requirements are not excessive, a
couple of hours prepping the car before each event is all that’s required. If you are handy with a wrench, then
the maintenance requirements are well within the capabilities of most track day and racing enthusiasts. If you
consider yourself mechanically challenged, or just prefer not to do the work yourself, we encourage you to get
with a mechanic with race experience that can help get you going, and assist with your maintenance between
events.

WARNING

• The RUSH SR race car is a high-performance vehicle designed for Track use only. Its proper
maintenance and operation are critical for your safety. Improper maintenance, use, high performance
events or competitive racing in general, can result in major injury or even death. Never drive the RUSH
SR beyond your ability, and beware of other vehicles on track at all times.
• During the Winter the SR may be shipped to you without any coolant for freeze protection. We do not
use Glycol based coolants as they present a major safety issue if spilled on track. Only use water with
water wetter. Fluids should be checked before each startup of the car. Never remove the Radiator cap
while the system is hot!
• It is NOT recommended to ever engage gear on the car with the body work removed as there are
unprotected moving components such as the chain and driveline that could cause sever harm or injury.
• Never operate the RUSH SR without the seat belts securely fastened and with the driver wearing
appropriate safety gear. Full FIA / SFI fire rated safety gear is recommended, at all times, together with
a full-face race approved helmet.

Seat Mounting

We prefer that customers visit our factory at time of completion of their car. This allows us to ensure that the
seat is mounted where the driver is comfortable and that the seat and pedals are positioned where they will
best suit the owner.

Where a customer cannot visit our factory for seat fitment, we do not mount the seat. Our reason for this is
we simply cannot guess where you will want it and will end up drilling holes where you didn’t want them.
The car is shipped with the pedals mounted full forward. Don’t worry about them until you have the seat
mounted. It’s important to get your seat placed where you are in a comfortable driving position first, and then
adjust the pedals where you want them.

We have a you tube video on how to mount the seat link here.

Black Nsel button – The black neutral select button is provided to allow selection of Neural while operating
the gearbox via the paddle shift controls. The gearbox is a sequential six speed gearbox, with Neutral
positioned between first and second gears. The black Nsel button tells the GCU you are trying to select
Neutral. When pressed, the shift paddle commands the GCU to make only a half shift up or down respectfully.

Red PTT button – The red Push to Talk button is provided should you wish to use a communication radio. The
wires are connected through the wheel jumper cable to the wiring harness. A black and white wire can be
found in the left-hand wiring harness and are not connected to anything. These wires can be connected to
your radio harness to allow control of the PTT function.

Aim dash logger – Your aim dash logger has been set up at the factory with our basic setup. Alarms have been
set for Water Temperature and Oil Pressure. If you see warning lights coming on while on track, assess the
situation and either pull off and shut down, or slow down and exist that track immediately, then shut down.
The primary page of your dash logger will display your basic engine data and lap time. The Top LEDS have been
set up as shift lights. Page 2 of your Aim Dash setup will show front and rear brake pressures. ALWAYS check
your brake pressures and balance before entering the racetrack.

Auxiliary switch – The auxiliary switch is not connected, it is provided as a spare for owner installed options.
Rain light strobe switch – The rain light strobe switch controls the rear center positioned red led strobe to
provide better visibility for approaching vehicles in wet conditions.

DRL strobe / running lights 3 position switch – The DRL strobe / running lights 3 position switch is off when in
the center position. In the upward position, the front DRL’s are switched on in the strobe manner to provide
additional visibility to cars ahead of you, so that they have a better chance of seeing you approaching from
behind. When moved to the lower position, this switch turns on the front DRL’s continuously, and also
activates the outward rear red led lights at half brightness. This can be useful in darker overcast conditions.
These are NOT night driving lights. In this position, the rear brake lights are still active at full brightness under
braking.

Mechanical brake bias control – The mechanical brake bias control allows you to adjust the brake Bias balance
front to rear. CAUTION It can also set you perfectly to spin the car when you mess with it and get it wrong!
Page 2 of your AIM dash / logger will show you the pressure you generate when pressing the brake pedal for
both the front and rear brakes. Typically, you want this set 60-55% to the front, 40-45% to the rear. Do not
turn the bias adjuster while pressing the brake pedal. Turning the bias adjuster to the left, dials in more front
brake. Conversely, turning it clockwise wile dial in more rear brake. ALWAYS Check your brake balance before
entering the track, kids love to turn knobs!

It’s time to drive this thing!

Driving the RUSH SR is very simple. It’s doing it fast that’s going to take you a bit of practice! The clutch is only
used to engage 1st gear to get going, and again when you come to a stop. You will be starting in Neutral so
depress the clutch and using the left-hand paddle, shift down to first. Remember Neutral is between first and
second. The clutch is pretty fierce so you’re going to stall unless you give it considerable revs, 3,000 -3,500 and
gently find the bite point to get the car rolling. During demos we get someone to give the car a push, most people will just stall the car. If you stall, press the clutch, press the NSel button, and up shift to Neutral to
allow the car to be restarted,

Once rolling, up shifts can be made with the right-hand paddle. Upshifts must be made under power, and if
you lift off it won’t work. Downshifts should be made with the left-hand paddle while off the gas. If you’re on
the gas it won’t work. While in the paddock, perform a few brake checks to make sure you are finding the
brake pedal. We had one demo driver wearing large shoes manage to get the gas and not the brake!!!
DO NOT try operating the gear box through the range of gears while stationary, as this can result in damage to
the gear box.

Hold Up, Lets break the engine in!

Before you set a new track record… Let’s think about that brand new engine. Be kind to it and it will be kind to
you and your wallet! The engine should be given three break-in sessions. 1) keeping RPM Below 7,500. 2)
Keeping RPM Below 10,500. 3) First half session Below 10,500 then allowing full rev out to limiter. Engine
should be allowed to cool after each session.

This also give you a chance to get broken into the car. Fluids should be checked after each session. Following
these three sessions, you are good to go. The car is very balanced but will bite back if you horse it around. Find
your limits slowly and work into the car. It likes to be balanced in the corners, deep trail braking and yanking
your foot off the brake at mid corner, will not give you the results you want. Learning to use the shift lights will
take some time too, most people are tuned into changing gear by 7,000 rpm. Short shift and you are not even
in the powerband.

Now go have some fun….
Thank you again,
Without you our customers, this was all for nothing!
David Hosie
RUSH Auto Works Inc.